Rochas fields fashion-forward retro collection

Models dressed like they were recovering from a wasting illness skulked the catwalk at Rochas, in a 1940s-inspired spring-summer 2010 ready-to-wear show fit for a seaside health resort.

The catwalk display _ the storied but troubled label's first since 2006 _ had the languid feel of a Visconti film set at a tuberculosis clinic. It was all sumptuous and beautiful, but with a lingering odor of musty mothballs.

"It was old-fashioned but new-fashioned at the same time," said Hilary Alexander, a fashion director for Britain's Daily Telegraph newspaper. "I found myself wondering 'how can clothes be chic and retro and bohemian and elegant all at the same time?'"

With its granny cardigans and nipped-waisted skirt suits, its straw hats and chunky platform espadrilles that were made for a brisk stroll, Rochas' collection was just what the doctor ordered for a prolonged, lung-cleansing seaside stint.

The silhouette was long and lean, with pencil skirts in translucent stretch with flower-printed paneling or high-waisted shorts worn with tucked-in cardigans. Paper flowers embellished the skinny belts that finished off all the looks, including the little boy tank-top-and-brief ensemble that was worn as a sort of leotard.

The colors _ odd and compelling pairings of burgundy and chartreuse, robin's egg blue and glimmering silver _ were ravishing, but recalled Belgian designer Dries Van Noten's hallmark color combinations.

It was the first runway display at Rochas by Italian designer Marco Zanini, who fielded his debut collection for the label at a presentation last season. Known for its perfumes, the Paris-based label has a long and illustrious history but has struggled in recent years to keep its ready-to-wear afloat and shuttered the line in 2006.

Zanini made Wednesday a strong case for its resurrection.